Timing is Everything

Bear Lake to Fern Lake TH Traverse, RMNP

In hiking, as with most things, timing is everything. Mark was visiting from Baltimore for a weekend and wanted to climb a peak. He was really desperate to climb a peak, despite the various trouble I'd gotten him in last time. Some people never learn, I guess. As usual, the weather forecast was not inspiring and I couldn't think of any winter peaks to climb that wouldn't be epic potential in the likely conditions.

Instead, since we'd have two cars, I suggested the traverse from Bear Lake to the Fern Lake TH in RMNP. It's an attractive looking traverse across five lakes (Bear, Two Rivers, Helene, Odessa, and Fern) and is more down hill than up with good views along the way, but not a lot of exposure to high winds. The problem is that it's about nine miles one-way and requires a car shuttle from the Fern Lake TH back to Bear Lake. Amy and I tried it three years ago, but turned back at Lake Helene because of high winds. I went back the next winter and hiked the northern half up to Lake Odessa and back, but I'd never seen the half mile of trail connecting Lakes Helene to Odessa.

Mark and Eric cruising on the well-packed Flattop Mountain Trail.

One of the huge snow dunes we encountered near the lakes (photo MK).

Mark was still bummed about not climbing a peak, but it looked like my choice was a wise one. It started snowing hard as Eric, Mark, and I left the Bear Lake TH. Despite the snow and low visibility, the winds were mercifully calm and the trails were popular with snowshoers and skiers. We made good time across Bear Lake and up the familiar trail to the Flattop Trail Junction. From there on, the trail was less trodden and we spent a long time tramping through the heavily-snowed woods. Crossing the first clearing by the Flattop meadows, we saw 10' high snow dunes blown down from above. It was really impressive. The snow came and went, but it stayed generally pretty gloomy. The broken trail wandered around drunkenly through the trees and it was only via GPS that we saw we were getting toward Two Rivers Lake and the first of the (potentially) good views.

At long last, we found our way to the snow-covered flatness that marked Two Rivers Lake. Visibility as still poor and the wind was picking up. Then the most remarkable thing happened: just as Mark and Eric arrived at the lake, I noticed you could barely make out the distinctive form of Notchtop looming above. Cameras came out as we realized this might be the best view of the day. In the space of four minutes, Notchtop waxed from barely visible to fully-clear, bluebird skies. The timing was exceptional! I wish I could say I planned that, but everyone was very impressed, even peak-obsessed Mark.

We were so elated that we had a "view" of Notchtop from Two Rivers Lake...

...until four minutes later when we got the real view! Wow! (all photos EB)

After a nice lunch basking in the spectacular cirque of Lake Helene, we set off into Odessa Gorge. The path wasn't at all obvious and we spent a while on the slopes of Joe Mills Mountain looking for a way through the cliffs.

Eric looking dramatic at our lunch stop near Lake Helene (photo MK)

Trying to find our way into Odessa Gorge (photo EB)

Finally, we noticed a set of tracks in the valley below us and followed them to the weakness in the cliffs of Odessa Gorge. A couple quick glissades and strides down a steep snow slope and we were on the easy trail to Lake Odessa. The weather changed from snow to clear and back several times during the course of this, but we'd had the great views and were satisfied with whatever else might come.

Lunch stop #2 at Lake Odessa was cut short by fickle weather (photos EB)

From Odessa, we followed the strong set of tracks into the deep and steep terrain down to Fern Lake. When I was here last time, I couldn't find the summer trail and spent a long time bushwhacking up and down steep forest slopes. The tracks we were following kept to the summer trail and we were rewarded with some spectacular scenery in the dense forest with thick blankets of snow everywhere. At length, we reached the lovely Fern Lake and paused for a third lunch. We were all pretty tired and it was nice to get onto the well-packed trail.

Mark and Eric traversing the steep trail above Fern Lake

Fantastic snow sculptures everywhere (photo MK)

After seeming miles of painful descent, we reached The Pool and doffed snowshoes for the long, flat hike out. The snow down here was considerably more rotten and large patches of (danger) ice made footing treacherous. Finally, as light was fading, we reached the winter trailhead and Mark's car, shuttled up to Bear Lake, and went on our way.

It was a great trip and we took over 300 photos between us. The extraordinary timing of the weather and our arrival is something I really wish I could plan. It just goes to show that you shouldn't write off a day because of less-than-perfect weather. A mediocre day spent in the mountains is still better than a good day not in the mountains. And you never know... you might get lucky with the timing.

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