Spring Loaded Camming Devices

I now own eight cams:

• #1 WC rigid friend -- I almost never use it. The design is fine, but the cams are not appreciably larger than the stem. Buy something else in the small sizes, like TCUs, speaking of which....
• #4 Metolius TCU -- My clutch-peice! Awesome pro for desperate (for me) finger cracks. Doesn't walk much either. I'd love a smaller one as well (#2 maybe?).
• #8 Metolius 4-cam -- Like its smaller sibling, the #8 has nice action and feels solid when you place it. Unfortunately it overlaps with the #2 Camalot in size but has a smaller range. Thus it doesn't get used as much; usually late in the pitch if at all.
• #.5, #1, #2, and #3.5 BD Camalots -- standard rack workhorse pieces. They have a wide range, slot nicely and have sexy action. I'd love to expand my collection of Camalots in both directions, but the budget currently limits me. The trigger wire on the #1 comes unhooked occasionally which requires both hands to fix. I don't have a #3 because the previous #8 Metolius fits the 2-3 Camalot range.
• #10 Trango monster -- acquired cheap, equivalent of a #4.5 camalot. It weighs a lot and you need to pin back the lobes when you're carrying it. The springs are a bit weak and it tends to walk around. Still, it's indispensable for those 5"+ cracks (what else are you going to get to protect cracks that size at under $30?) and I use it more often than I figured... though perhaps that's only so I can make my second carry it.

Here's a how the size ranges compare:

Scott Canna

As far as what you want to buy, I dunno. Go to REI and play with some stuff. My dream rack:
• 00, 1, 2, 3 TCU's (like aliens, only stronger)
• .5, .75, 1, 2, 3, 4 Camalots (.5 and .75 are camalot Jr., but whatever)

I have been looking into the same thing. I don't know if you have looked at the 1999 Climbing Gear Guide, but they feature SLCD's in this issue. If you haven't seen it, there are some editor's picks at the end of the listing which give some reasons on why one brand is liked more than others. I'll try to summarize them for you. If you have read it...sorry for the repetition.
• Black Diamond Camalots: wide camming range makes up for user's sizing errors, strong springs, generous size overlap, anodized cams for easy identification.
• BD Camalot Juniors: great range for small size, super durable.
• Wild Country Forged Friends: indestructible.
• Wild Country Technical Friends: flexible stems (good for horizontal cracks), sturdy triggers and stems.
• Colorado Custom Hardware Aliens: compact head design
• Metolius Fat Cams: "inboard" trigger cables reduce tangles and don't break, 50% fatter cams

  I don't know if any of that helps me make a decision or not. My local climbing "mentor" who owns the local gym uses the Friends mostly, but had told me that he has a little of each brand because all are different and each is a little better than another in different locations.
  The price difference isn't enough to allow that to make the decision.

Aaron Buchok

If your looking to really get into lead climbing start off with some Friends (Wild Country) or Camalots (Black Diamond). Friends don't cost a lot about $30 a cam and are rugged little things. But Camalots cost about $45 bucks, but their easier to learn on, its difficult to screw up a placement with them. The only divider is how much your willing to spend. The company that I use is named moab climbing shop they have great deals on complete racks.
(Ed. Camalots for $45? Sign me up for some of those!)

IME of North Conway, NH lists the following as active components of their "basic rack":

• Tech Friends 1.0, 1.5
• Camalots 1,2